Installing Laminate Flooring: A Step-by-Step DIY Guide
Laminate flooring uses a click-lock system that snaps planks together without glue or nails — making it one of the most accessible DIY flooring projects a homeowner can tackle. Here’s how to do it right.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
- Laminate planks (plus 10% extra for waste)
- Underlayment (if not pre-attached)
- Tape measure and pencil
- Chalk line
- Circular saw or miter saw
- Jigsaw (for cutouts around doorframes)
- Pull bar and tapping block
- Spacers (1/4 inch)
- Rubber mallet
Step 1: Prepare the Subfloor
The subfloor must be clean, flat, and dry. Use a long straightedge to check for high and low spots. Any variation greater than 3/16 inch over 10 feet should be sanded down or filled with floor leveling compound. Moisture is laminate’s biggest enemy — use a moisture meter if you’re unsure, and apply a moisture barrier on concrete subfloors.
Step 2: Acclimate the Planks
Leave the laminate boxes in the room where they’ll be installed for at least 48 hours before installation. This allows the planks to adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity, reducing expansion gaps after installation.
Step 3: Install the Underlayment
If your laminate doesn’t have underlayment pre-attached, roll it out across the entire floor, trimming it to fit and taping seams together. Don’t overlap — underlayment should butt up at the seams, not stack. Some products combine moisture barrier and underlayment in one.
Step 4: Plan Your Layout
Start along the longest straight wall, typically opposite the main entrance. Lay out a dry row to determine the width of your final row. If it will be less than 2 inches, trim the first row to balance the cut widths on both sides of the room. Use 1/4-inch spacers against the walls to maintain the expansion gap.
Step 5: Install the First Row
Start in a corner with the tongue side facing the wall. Place spacers between the planks and the wall on all sides. Connect planks end-to-end using the click system. Use a pull bar and mallet at the end of each row to fully seat the last plank.
Step 6: Install Subsequent Rows
Stagger end joints by at least 6 inches (or one-third the plank length) between rows. Click the long edge of the new plank into the previous row at an angle, then press down. Use a tapping block to gently close any gaps. Mix planks from different boxes to distribute any color variation evenly.
Step 7: Cut Around Obstacles
Use a jigsaw to cut around doorframes, vents, and pipes. For pipes, drill a hole slightly larger than the pipe, cut a V-notch to the hole, then cover the gap with a pipe cover collar after installation.
Step 8: Install Transitions and Trim
Remove spacers. Install baseboards or quarter-round molding to cover the expansion gaps. Use transition strips at doorways and where laminate meets other flooring types. Never nail through the laminate itself — nail into the wall or subfloor only.